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  • Paddy
  • Born and educated in Germany, I came to live in the UK in 1982. After working in various jobs over the years, I am now a freelance writer. I have a passion for wildlife and nature in general and love my family, my dog Jet, writing, music and dragons.
  • Born and educated in Germany, I came to live in the UK in 1982. After working in various jobs over the years, I am now a freelance writer. I have a passion for wildlife and nature in general and love my family, my dog Jet, writing, music and dragons.

A - Z Plant List

A - B - C - D/E

F - G - H/I/J

K/L - M - N/O

P - Q/R - S

T to Z

 

The A - Z of House Plants is currently under construction. Plant names will be linked to their corresponding articles as they are added. Please be patient - there are a lot of plants, and there may be days when only one or two articles can be added at a time. In the meantime, why not take a look at some of these general care articles:

 

A brief Guide to Potting Mixes

 

When and how to repot House Plants

 

Grooming House Plants - the Basics

 

Indoor House Plants and Light

 

Ten House Plants tolerating low Light Conditions

 

Indoor House Plants and Humidity Levels

 

Watering Indoor House Plants

 

Fertilising House Plants

 


To save readers having to scroll through the whole alphabet when looking for a specific plant, each section will be moved to its own page once all corresponding articles have been added. 

 

Yet to come: 

 

H

Haworthia

(Haworthia species)

Heartleaf Philodendron

(Philodendron scandens)

Hellebore

(Helleborus niger)

 Hibiscus

(Hibiscus rosa-sinensis)

Hyacinth Flower

(Hyacinthus orientalis hybrids)

Hydrangea

(Hydrangea macrophylla)

 

I

Impatiens

(Impatiens hybrids)

Iron Cross Begonia

(Begonia masoniana)

Ivy Geranium

(Pelargonium peltatum)

Ixora 

(Ixora coccinea)

 

J

Jade Plant

(Crassula ovata)

Janet Craig Dracaena

(Dracaena deremensis)

Japanese Aralia

(Fatsia japonica)

Jasmine Plant

(Jasminum polyanthum)

Jerusalem Cherry

(Solanum pseudocapsicum)

 

K

Kaffir Lily

(Clivia miniata)

Kentia Palm

(Howea forsteriana)

 

L

Lady Palm

(Rhapis excelsa)

Lantana Plants

(Lantana camara)

Lily of the Valley                                      

(Convallaria majalis)

Lipstick Plant                                          

(Aeschynanthus lobbianus)

Living Stones                                           

(Lithops species)

Lucky Bamboo                                        

(Dracaena sanderiana)

 

M

Madagascar Palm                                    

(Pachypodium lamerei)

Maidenhair Fern                                       

(Adiantum)

Mandevilla Plant                                       

(Mandevilla hybrids)

Martha Washington Geranium                   

(Pelargonium domesticum)

Medinilla                                                 

(Medinilla magnifica)

Ming Aralia                                              

(Polyscias fruticosa)

Miniature Roses                                        

(Rosa chinensis hybrids)

Mona Lavender                                        

(Plectranthus hybrid)

Money Tree Plant                                     

(Pachira aquatica)

Moses in the Cradle                                 

(Tradescantia spathacea)

Mother of Thousands                                

(Kalanchoe daigremontiana)

Mother-in-Law's Tongue/ Snake Plant        

(Sansevieria trifasciata)

 

N

Nerve Plant                                              

(Fittonia verschaffeltii)

New Guinea Impatiens                              

(Impatiens x hawkeri hybrid)

Norfolk Island Pine                                   

(Araucaria heterophylla)

 

O

Oleander Plant                                         

(Nerium oleander)

Orchid Cactus                                         

(Epiphyllum species and hybrids)

Ornamental Chili Pepper                           

(Capsicum annuum)

 

P

Paddle Plant                                            

(Kalanchoe thyrsiflora)

Panda Plant                                            

(Kalanchoe tomentosa)

Pansy                                                     

(Viola x wittrockiana)

Paperwhite Narcissus                               

(Narcissus jonquilla)

Papyrus Plant                                          

(Cyperus papyrus)

Parlor Palm                                             

(Chamaedorea elegans)

Parrot Flower                                           

(Heliconia psittacorum)

Passion Flower                                        

(Passiflora caerulea)

Peace Lily

(Spathiphyllum)

Peacock Plant                                         

(Calathea makoyana)

Peperomia                                               

(Peperomia caperata)

Periwinkle Flower                                     

(Catharanthus roseus)

Persian Shield                                         

(Strobilanthes dyerianus)

Persian Violet                                          

(Exacum affine)

Piggyback Plant                                      

(Tolmiea menziesii)

Pink Calla Lily                                         

(Zantedeschia rehmannii)

Pink Quill                                                

(Tillandsia cyanea)

Pitcher Plant                                           

(Nepenthes hybrids)

Plumeria                                                 

(Plumeria rubra)

Pocketbook Plant                                    

(Calceolaria herbeohybrida)

Poinsettia                                                

(Euphorbia pulcherrima)

Polka Dot Plant                                       

(Hypoestes phyllostachya)

Ponytail Palm                                          

(Beaucarnea recurvata)

Pothos/ Devil's Ivy                                    

(Epipremnum aureum)

Powder Puff Tree                                      

(Calliandra haematocephala)

Prayer Plant                                            

(Maranta leuconeura)

Primrose Flowers                                     

(Primula hybrids)

Purple Heart Plant                                    

(Tradescantia pallida)

Purple Passion Plant                                

(Gynura aurantiaca)

Purple Shamrock                                     

(Oxalis regnellii)

Pygmy Date Palm                                     

(Phoenix roebelenii)

 

Q

Queen's Tears                                         

(Billbergia nutans)

 

R

Rabbit Foot Fern                                      

(Davallia fejeensis)

Rex Begonia                                            

(Begonia rex)

Rosary Vine                                            

(Ceropegia woodii)

Rubber Plant                                           

(Ficus elastica)

 

S

Sago Palm                                              

(Cycas revoluta)

Satin Pothos                                           

(Scindapsus pictus)

Scarlet Star                                             

(Guzmania lingulata)

Scented Geranium                                   

(Pelargonium species and hybrids)

Schefflera                                                

(Schefflera actinophylla)

Sensitive Plant                                         

(Mimosa pudica)

Shamrock Plant                                       

(Oxalis species)

Shrimp Plant                                           

(Justicia brandegeana)

Siam Tulip                                               

(Curcuma alismatifolia)

Spider Lily                                               

(Hymenocallis littoralis)

Spider Plant

(Chlorophytum comosum)

Split-Leaf Philodendron                             

(Philodendron bipinnatifidum)

Staghorn Fern                                          

(Platycerium bifurcatum)

Strawberry Begonia                                  

(Saxifraga stolonifera)

String of Pearls                                        

(Senecio rowleyanus)

Swedish Ivy                                             

(Plectranthus species)

Sweet Potato Vine                                   

(Ipomea batatas)

Swiss Cheese Plant                                 

(Monstera deliciosa)


T

Thanksgiving Cactus                                

(Schlumbergera truncata)

Ti Plant                                                   

(Cordyline terminalis)

Tiger's Jaw                                              

(Faucaria tigrina)

Tulips                                                      

(Tulipa hybrids)

 

U - V - W

Urn Plant                                                 

(Aechmea fasciata)

Venus Fly Trap                                        

(Dionaea muscipula)

Wandering Jew                                        

(Tradescantia albiflora)

Wax Begonia                                           

(Begonia x semperflorens-cultorum)

Wax Plant                                               

(Hoya carnosa)

Weeping Fig                                            

(Ficus benjamina)

Windmill Palm Tree                                  

(Trachycarpus fortunei)

 

X - Y - Z

Yucca                                                     

(Yucca elephantipes)

Zebra Plant                                              

(Aphelandra squarrosa)

ZZ Plant                                                  

(Zamioculcas zamiifolia)

Sad News...

quote-10-06-2013-RIP.jpg

Stop Animal Cruelty

Instead of protecting the precious diversity of life on our planet, many countries, groups and individuals delight in performing acts of incredible cruelty to and on animals. To help stop this insanity going on, please go to The Petitions Site and add your voice to the thousands of individuals who are prepared to stand up and say: ' Enough is enough. Stop this now!' 

July 9 2012 1 09 /07 /July /2012 20:09

air plantPlant Summary

Botanical Name: Tillandsia ionantha

Type: Flowering

Origin: Ecuador

Height: 15 - 30 cm (6 - 12 in)

Soil: Not required

Light: Air plants love bright light, but direct sunlight is only acceptable in winter, not in summer.

Humidity: Moderate to high. Dry air will cause leaf tips to go brown.

Temperatures: From spring into early autumn, temperatures should range from 18 to 27 degrees C (65 - 80 degrees F). Cooler winter temperatures - around 16 degrees C (60 degrees F) - will assist blooming.

Water: Spray the air plant until it is thoroughly wet (taking care not to soak its base) twice a week. In winter, mist only once per week, or just enough to prevent the plant from drying out.

Fertiliser: Use a foliar high phosphorous fertiliser that has been diluted to half its strength to feed the air plant once every two weeks during spring and summer.

Propagation: Offsets need to be detached and repositioned when they reach about half the size of their parent plant to allow space for new growth.

air plant-woDescription and Care Tips

The Air Plant, which is often referred to simply as the Tillandsia,  is a tropical house plant belonging to the Bromeliad family. In its native habitat, this plant uses its small roots to attach itself to the branches of trees, where it lives by absorbing nutrients and water through its leaves, as opposed to absorbing them from soil through its roots. 

Known subsequently as an epiphyte, this plant should not be placed into potting mix, as this may result in the small roots rotting away. The best places to grow this plant are in depressions or crevices of gnarled wood (driftwood or treated wood are not suitable, as they may contain harmful salt); wired into wreaths or tucked into bowls, bottles or sea-shells. Placing the roots onto sphagnum moss will prevent them drying out.

The thin, arching leaves of the Tillandsia feature red or deep pink, somewhat plume-like bracts and grow in rosettes. In summer, mature plants - it takes around three years for Tillandsias to mature - will produce violet-blue flowers. If a mature plant fails to flower, it may need to be moved to a brighter spot. It is, however, important to avoid direct, hot sunlight, as this may scorch the plant's foliage.

This type of plant will only live for about five years, but propagating the offsets, which are known as Pups and generally grow around the parent, will provide an ongoing supply of beautiful plants.

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July 9 2012 1 09 /07 /July /2012 13:08

african-violetPlant Summary

Botanical Name: Saintpaulia hybrids

Type: Flowering

Origin: Eastern Africa

Height: Up to 15 cm (6 in)

Soil: Peat moss based or specific African Violet mix

Light: Plenty of bright light is required for blooming. Direct sunlight is acceptable in winter, but should be avoided during summer, as it may scorch the African Violet's leaves. This plant will also do well under fluorescent light. Lack of light will cause plant to become leggy and fail blooming. African Violets need rest, too, so eight hours of darkness per night need to be provided in order to keep the plant blooming.

Humidity: High. Setting the plant on a tray with wet pebbles will adequately raise humidity.

Temperatures: Ideal temperatures range from 18 to 24 degrees C (65 - 75 degrees F).

Water: Soil should be kept moist evenly, without getting soggy. Avoid stem rot by watering from the bottom.

Fertiliser: Feed once every two weeks, using a specifically formulated African Violet fertiliser.

Propagation: During spring or summer, take leaf stem cuttings of 2.5 to 5 cm (1 - 2 in) length. The cut end is dipped into water, the hormone rooting powder. The stem is then poked into potting mix, which needs to be firmed down around the stem to keep it standing up. The whole pot should then be encased in clear plastic to keep in moisture. Kept out of direct sunlight, roots should begin to develop within a month, with plantlets forming from the cutting's base after another month or so.

Description and Care Tips

african-violet-gtThe dainty African Violets, a favourite among flowering house plants because they are such dependable bloomers - given sufficient light and rest, they can be kept flowering for most of the year - form low-growing rosettes of rounded, dark green leaves. 

Available in a thousands of sometimes downright spectacular looking cultivars, African Violets may produce single or double flowers; flowers with large, frilly petals or flowers with white edging. Rising above the plant's leaves on their fleshy stems, these flowers come in a whole range of wonderful colours, from whites, pinks and reds through a palette of shades of purple and violet-blue to bi-coloured blooms. 

In addition, African Violet cultivars also include micro, miniature and trailing varieties. In short, there is an African Violet to suit any house plant lover's taste.

Caring for these lovely plants is comparatively easy, although it is essential to avoid cold drafts, harsh direct summer sun and over-watering, as all of these conditions will damage the plant. Keeping the potting mix moist, providing sufficient indirect, yet bright light and feeding the plant regularly will keep it healthy and happily blooming. 

african-violet-stAs the leaves age, they will turn brown and shrivel, which is perfectly normal. They should be cut off as soon as possible, because if left on the plant, they may attract fungal disease. Because these plants prefer to be a little pot-bound, it is only necessary to repot once in a while to refresh the potting mix, and the pot used should be roughly half the width of the plant.

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July 9 2012 1 09 /07 /July /2012 11:36

achimenes-varieties.jpgPlant Summary

Botanical Name: Achimenes Spp. and Hybrids

Type: Flowering

Origin: Central America

Height: Trailing up to 30 - 60 cm (1 - 2 ft)

Soil: Equal parts of peat moss, perlite or coarse sand and vermiculite.

Light: Protect plant against midday sun (may cause scorch marks on leaves).

Humidity: Moderate

Temperature: Preferably 18 to 24 degrees C (65 to 75 degrees F). While plant will tolerate temperatures as low as 12 degrees C (55 degrees F), the flower buds will dry up and shrivel if temperatures rise above 25 degrees C (80 degrees F).

achimenes-woWater: Soil needs to be kept continually and evenly moist. Drying of the soil will lead to plant becoming dormant. Do not water during winter months.

Fertiliser: When blooming, feed plant once every two weeks with liquid high-phosphorous fertiliser that has been diluted to one quarter of its strength.

Propagation: Stem tip cuttings approximately 8 cm (3 in) may be taken in summer. Alternatively, the rhizome may be cut into smaller pieces and potted separately in spring. 

Description and Care Tips

Achimenes is available in dozens of hybrids, providing a multitude of colours, including whites, pinks and yellows; reds, purples and violet-blues. Some varieties have flowers with contrasting stripes on their throats. 

The flowers will appear on short stems growing from leaf axils. Tubular in shape, they will grow up to 5 cm (2 in) in length and open out into up to 8 cm (3 in) wide, five-petaled trumpets. Although each individual flower will only last for a few days, the plant will produce blooms for several months at a time.

achimenesgtsaysAchimenes carries its up to 8 cm (3 in) long, velvety, deep green and sawtooth-edged leaves in pairs. Because the long stems of this plant are comparatively weak, they will cascade out over the container's edge.

Ideally, an Achimenes plant should be placed into a position where it will receive plenty of light, without being in direct sunlight. Light filtered from a west or south facing window will provide all the light necessary. 

The plant needs to be watered regularly during the growing and blooming season, to avoid the soil becoming dry, which will trigger dormancy. It is, however, essential to ensure that the plant is not over-watered, as soggy soil will rapidly result in the rhizomes rotting.

This plant will need rest during the winter months. As flowering begins to slow in autumn, watering should be reduced to allow the plant to die off naturally. The withered, brown stems are then cut off at soil level, using sharp pruners. They should not be pulled off by hand, as this may easily damage the rhizomes. 

Once all stems have been removed, the rhizomes need to be taken out of the pot and stored in a cool (16 degrees C, or 60 degrees F), dry place (in a paper bag). In spring - which, by the way, is a good time to propagate the plant by dividing rhizomes - the dormant rhizomes are planted 2.5 cm (1 in) deep into fresh potting mix, which should be kept continually moist.

achimenes-st1Small or shrivelled rhizomes should be discarded, as they will not grow too well. Dipping the rhizomes in hot water, though not necessary, will provide a good start for growth. This is, in fact, the reason for the plant also being known as the Hot Water Plant.

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July 6 2012 5 06 /07 /July /2012 13:47

Acropora coral is a genus of polyp stony coral belonging to the Cnidaria Phylum. This species rich genera - 149 species have been described, but it is believed that there are in excess of 350 species in the genus - are important in reef building, often dominating vast sections of the tropical coral reefs found around the Indo-Pacific, although a few species - though not as abundant - can be found in tropical Atlantic regions. 

acropora1.jpgHabitat

Acropora corals predominantly live within shallow reef environments in the oceans surrounding Africa, American Samoa and Asia; Australia, the British Indian Ocean Territory and Central America; Europe, the Middle East and North America (US Territory), as well as Oceania and South America. Constraint to the water-surface in order to make the most out of the sun's energy, Acropora corals prefer medium to high water motion. As a rule, shoals of small fish can be found within these living 'forests'.

Biology and Ecology

Growing as plates, slender or comparatively broad branches - depending on the location and the species - Acropora corals are colonies of small organisms called polyps. Approximately 2 mm in diameter, the polyps protrude slightly from the coral - typically more so during the night - to capture and feed on dissolved organic matter and plankton. Unexpected movement and the arrival of potential predators will cause the polyps to withdraw back into the coral until the coast is clear, so to speak.

Colonies of Acropora coral share both a nerve net and tissue. Because the skeleton, or corallite of new polyps is created by somewhat specialised axial corralites, which form the tips of branches, the whole colony is closely interconnected, making it possible for the colony to grow rapidly in a coordinated manner. 

Like many other corals, Acropora species have a symbiotic relationship with zooxanthellae, a type of algae. The coral provides a safe environment for the algae within its tissue, while the algae uses photosynthesis to provide nutrients for the coral. On average, approximately 70 per cent of the coral's nutrients are obtained in this manner, but it will also feed on zooplankton.

Reproduction occurs either sexually or asexually. For sexual reproduction, streams of eggs and sperm are released into the water. Some of the larvae resulting from fertilisation of eggs will settle on the original reef, while others may drift around the oceans for months before finally settling on far away reefs. 

Asexual reproduction occurs when a branch breaks off the colony, becomes re-attached to the substrate and continues to grow from there. This process is also known as fragmentation, and is often used to grow coral for aquariums. The majority of corals will reach maturity at an age of between three and eight years, and it is believed that normal life expectancy is somewhere above ten years.

acropora2.jpgThreats to Acropora Coral

The most common threats to Acropora and other corals include pollution, abnormally high water temperatures and eutrophication (excess nutrients stimulating excessive plant growth); sedimentation and increased acidification of oceans. One of the first signs of corals being stressed by one or more of these causes is bleaching, which is the direct result of the loss of zooxanthellae. The bleached coral will have a stark white appearance, and, if new zooxanthellae can not be assimilated, will eventually die. 

Another real threat is over-fishing and diseases in predatory and plant-eating fish. As the numbers of, for example, groupers and parrot fish decline, organisms that prey on Acropora polyps - such as, for instance, damsel fish, fire worms and short coral snails - thrive. In addition, a lack of herbivorous fish allows macro algae growth to explode, limiting the recovery of already stressed corals and settling of coral larvae.

The sad News

Sadly, at present around 76 species of Acropora corals are listed as endangered. These species include:

  • A. willisae
  • A. walindii
  • A. verweyi
  • A. vaughani
  • A. turaki
  • A. tenuis
  • A. tenella
  • A. suharsonoi
  • A. striata
  • A. spicifera
  • A. speciosa
  • A. solitaryensis
  • A. simplex
  • A. selago
  • A. secale
  • A. russelli
  • A. rudis
  • A. roseni
  • A. retusa
  • A. polystoma
  • A. plumosa
  • A. pichoni
  • A. pharaonis
  • A. papillare
  • A. paniculata
  • A. palmerae
  • A. palmata, or Elkhorn Coral
  • A. nasuta
  • A. nana, or A. azurea
  • A. multiacuta
  • A. monticulosa
  • A. millepora
  • A. microclados
  • A. lutkeni
  • A. lovelli
  • A. loripes
  • A. lokani
  • A. loisetteae
  • A. listeri
  • A. kosurini
  • A. kirstyae
  • A. kimbeensis
  • A. jacquelineae
  • A. indonesia
  • A. hyacinthus, or Brush Coral
  • A. humilis, or Finger Coral
  • A. horrida
  • A. hoeksemai
  • A. hemprichii
  • A. granulosa
  • A. globiceps
  • A. glauca
  • A. formosa
  • A. florida, or Branch Coral
  • A. elegans
  • A. echinata
  • A. donei
  • A. divaricata
  • A. digitifera
  • A. desalwii
  • A. derawanensis
  • A. dendrum
  • A. cervicornis
  • A. caroliniana
  • A. carduus
  • A. batunai
  • A. awi
  • A. austera
  • A. aspera
  • A. arabensis
  • A. appressa
  • A. anthocercis, or Red Table Coral
  • A. acuminata
  • A. aculeus
  • A. abrolhosensis, or Fuzzy Staghorn

Conservation Measures

Fortunately, many coral reefs are already under protection, and in some areas, active measures are being undertaken to encourage the growth of new colonies. The drawback to these measures, however, is the fact that oceans continue to be polluted, over-fished and generally abused, and worldwide climate changes continue to heat up oceans everywhere. 

 

Sources:

http://www.earthsendangered.com/profile.asp?gr=COR&view=all&ID=1&sp=9362

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acropora

http://www.thesea.org/acropora/acropora_coral.htm

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June 30 2012 6 30 /06 /June /2012 18:58

Many people shy away from having house plants because the majority of rooms in their homes are not filled with direct sunlight for most of the day. This is, however, not really a problem, as there are many house plants that will not only survive, but thrive in low or poor light conditions.

There are many excellent house plant encyclopaedias online, offering advice on which plant needs how much light, etc, but just for starters, here is a list of ten indoor plants that will easily tolerate or, in some cases, even prefer low light locations. This includes east and north facing windows, positions between three and five feet away from south or south-west facing windows, and artificially lit office environments.

Aechmea Bromeleads, or Urn Plants

Surprising as it may be, this tropical plant much prefers moderate shade or indirect light to direct sunlight. Commonly sold already flowering, the Aechmea will usually hold its shape and bloom for months on end in artificial or poor light conditions.

Aglaonema commutatum, the Chinese Evergreen

Chinese Evergreen is easy to please, with little light being required. It prefers moist soil, and likes to have its roots confined for optimal growth, so it rarely requires repotting.

Aspidistra elatior, the Cast-Iron Plant

This is a tough plant that can survive not only low light, but also high heat, dry air and infrequent watering for prolonged periods. It does, in fact, prefer not to have soggy soil.

low-light-plants.jpgAsplenium nidus, the Bird Nest Fern

Moist, partially shaded environments are ideal for the easy going Bird Nest Fern, which easily shatters the myth of ferns always being fussy in their requirements.

Chlorophytum, the Spider Plant

One of the most undemanding house plants, the spider plant, is perfect for beginners, as it is almost impossible to kill. It generally prefers fairly bright light (although too much direct sunlight can scorch the leaves), it will quite happily tolerate semi-shaded, low light positions. 

Cyclamen persicum, or Florist Cyclamen Plant

Cyclamen bloom only for a short time and do not like too much direct sunlight, making them an ideal choice for adding a spot of instant colour to groups of non-flowering foliage house plants in shaded locations. 

Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana', the Corn Plant

This hardy plant will tolerate all sorts of abuse, including low light, but it does not like over-watering or over-fertilising. It much prefers to be left to dry out a little before being watered.

Dracaena sanderiana, the Lucky Bamboo

Technically not actually a bamboo, the Lucky Bamboo will tolerate low light better than too much light. If, however, the green starts fading or the plant starts to stretch, a little more light may be necessary. This plant, which can be placed directly into water or soil, is sensitive to chlorine and other chemicals present in tap water, so it is best to use bottled water, or leave tap water standing for 24 hours to allow evaporation of the chlorine before watering this plant. 

Epipremnum aureum, the Devil's Ivy, or Pothos

Quite content with comparatively low light, the Devil's Ivy is a hardy plant that is fairly easy to keep. It may loose a little of its variegation on the leaves in low light, but apart from this minor problem, it will be relatively happy.

Epipremnum pinnatum, the Golden Pothos Vine

This house plant acts somewhat unlike any other plant by thriving in dark, dry conditions. Its leaves do, as a matter of fact, lose their yellow, distinctive marbling if exposed to too much direct sunlight, making the Golden Pothos Vine a sure winner for shady locations.

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June 22 2012 5 22 /06 /June /2012 10:49

A.-rodriguezensis.jpgAfricanogyrus rodriguezensis, another endangered species that apparently has not been given a common name as yet, is a freshwater snail that is air breathing, or, to put it in scientific terms, an aquatic pulmonate gastropod mollusk. 

Endemic to Mauritius, the Africanogyrus rodriguezensis belongs to the family of Planorbidae, which includes the so-called ram's horn snails and other related species. As very little is known about this species, much of the information provided here applies predominately to snails in general.

Basic Information

The mollusk group of snails has spiral or coiled shells to cover the soft body. These shells enlarge towards the opening end as the snails grow. Some of the aquatic snails have to come to the water's surface to get the oxygen they require. The oxygen is then held and breathed in from within the shell. Other species, including the Africanogyrus rodriguezensis, have gills through which they extract the necessary oxygen straight from the water. None of the freshwater snails can survive for long periods out of the water.

Habitat, Diet and Reproduction

A.rodri-classification.jpgAfricanogyrus rodriguezensis and other freshwater snails are typically found amid non flowering plants and tree roots on the banks of slow to moderately flowing streams. Occasionally, they can also be found living among rock fragments and organic matter along the edge of the water.

It is believed that the Africanogyrus rodriguezensis is a herbivorous species, living on algae and small decaying bits of dead plants and so on. All snail species are hermaphrodites, meaning they possess the reproductive organs of both males and females. 

Fertilisation occurs through a small slit that appears on the snail's neck when the time is right. The eggs also develop in this slit. Once the larvae hatches from the eggs, they begin to swim freely in the water. Soon after, their shells begin to grow. Eventually, the weight of the shells becomes too heavy for them to swim, and they become 'pedestrian', like their parent. 

Population, Threats and Conservation

Unfortunately, there is currently no available data referring to population estimates or conservation measures. Africanogyrus rodriguezensis is listed as endangered, because it is believed that this species, like many other snails and other species of animals living within freshwater habitats, is threatened by habitat degradation and/ or pollution as a direct result of human activities. 

While it is obviously essential for agricultural, residential and industrial areas to be expanded in order to deal with and provide for the ever growing human population, it is a shame that so many species suffer as a result. 

Freshwater snails may not be cute and cuddly, but they do perform a vital role in the ecology of their habitat. Losing species that consume algae and decaying plant material will add further to the deterioration of streams and rivers, ultimately leading to many other species - including humans - being affected by choking rivers.

 

Sources:

Glenn, C. R. 2006. "Earth's Endangered Creatures - Afrogyrus rodriguezensis Facts" (Online).

Accessed 6/21/2012 at http://earthsendangered.com/profile.asp?sp=1731&ID=1.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Africanogyrus_rodriguezensis

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June 21 2012 4 21 /06 /June /2012 20:36

Regular maintenance and grooming will help to keep a house plant looking attractive and healthy. In addition, cleaning, deadheading (flowers), pinching and pruning plants will assist in preventing harmful diseases and pests.

Cleaning House Plants

a-violet.jpgCleaning the leaves of house plants may seem to be a strange task, but removing dust from the leaves will not only ensure the plant gets adequate light exposure, it will also help to get rid of tiny insects. 

Smooth, shiny leaves can be cleaned with a damp cloth or sponge. To avoid transferring insects from one plant to the next, the sponge or cloth should be given a quick rinse before moving on to the next plant.

Hairy leaves, such as those of the African violet, for example, need to be gently cleaned with a dry, soft brush, as using water may cause irremovable water spots. For plants with fine foliage, a gentle, all-over spray with water will do the trick.

Obviously, it is necessary to ensure the soil does not get soggy in the process. Excess water should be shaken off gently, followed by allowing the plant to dry away from direct sunlight to prevent scorching.

Deadheading Flowers

Removing dead flowers from house plants using sharp, clean scissors or pruners will stop the plant from looking unsightly and prevent dead flowers from rotting and becoming targets for grey mould. Removing flowers as they begin to fade will prolong blooming times by allowing plants to devote their energy into growing new buds.

This process naturally also prevents the plant's energy from being wasted on seed production, so if the idea is to collect and use seeds, the flowers should not be removed until after the seeds have been developed and collected.

Pinching House Plants

coleus.jpgPinching, or removing the young tips of stems by using the forefinger and thumb, will help a plant to become fuller and bushier. Especially effective on soft-stemmed plants, such as the coleus, for instance, pinching just above the growing point where leaves are attached (the node) will force branching below the pinch or cut. This prevents plants from becoming too 'leggy'.

Pruning House Plants

corn-plant.jpgHouse plants with woody, thick stems need to be pruned using pruning shears. Preferably done when the plant is in an active growing period, any dead branches or stems need to be pruned off to prevent decay, which may cause fungus attacks. Yellow or brown leaves, which will attract insects and diseases, should also be removed.  

While serious pruning is best done during spring or early summer, a light trim to keep things tidy can be given to the plant at any time throughout the year. Brown and yellow leaves should, of course, also be removed whenever they happen to appear. If they tend to appear en-masse at frequent intervals, it may be a sign that the plant is not happy and needs repotting, so it helps to keep an eye on how often they have to be removed.

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June 19 2012 2 19 /06 /June /2012 21:02

Every now and then, it becomes necessary to repot house plants, because unless adequate space for the plant's roots is provided, they can become pot bound. Pot bound roots form a tightly packed, cramped mass and will eventually inhibit the growth and well-being of a plant.

Signs that a Plant has pot bound Roots

pot-bound-roots.jpgIt is usually possible to notice that a plant is ready for a bigger pot when roots start appearing on top of the soil, or when they start growing out of the drainage hole at the bottom. If a plant's growth seems to slow down or stop altogether, easing the plant out of its container to inspect the roots will determine whether repotting is needed or not. 

When to repot Plants

Freshly purchased plants should not be repotted, as they need to acclimatise to the humidity, light and temperature of their new environment first of all. It can take a couple of weeks before a plant gets over the shock of coming into a new home, and repotting it would do it more harm than good. If the plastic container it came in is considered to be too unsightly, it should be placed into a cache pot for this period.

Actively growing, young plants should be given a slightly larger pot and new potting mix once every 12 months, while large, established house plants are repotted at two year intervals, or when they appear top heavy, As long as a plant is thriving, it can be safely assumed that it is happy in its current pot.

In general, it is best to repot plants at the beginning of active growth periods, such as in spring; or, in the case of winter-blooming plants, early autumn. 

Choosing a new Pot

growing-plants.jpgThe new pot should be no more than 2 in deeper and 2 in wider than the current pot, because if a pot that is too large is chosen, the top of the plant will not grow until the roots have filled the excess space in the pot. In addition, a pot that is too large will hold too much water, which could potentially cause the roots to rot.

It is vital to ensure that new pots have drainage holes. If these holes are quite large, placing a large pebble or a piece of broken pottery over the hole will prevent soil from falling out, while still allowing excess water to escape. If pots without drainage holes are used, some drainage can be provided by a layer of pebbles underneath the potting mix. 

Previously used pots should be scrubbed thoroughly to prevent diseases. Pots can be disinfected with a solution of nine parts water and one part of chlorine bleach. Naturally, they will have to be rinsed extremely well with clear water afterwards. New terra cotta pots need to be soaked in water for several hours before placing plants into them, as they tend to be quite dry and may rob moisture from the plant. 

Repotting a House Plant

The first step of successfully repotting a plant is to ease it gently out of its old pot. This can usually be done quite easily by turning the pot on its side and gently pulling the plant as close to the soil as possible. If it refuses to budge, a tap on the bottom of the pot tends to help. If all else fails, running a knife around the edge of the pot - taking care not to damage any roots - should do the trick. 

Any roots coiled around the bottom need to be pulled straight, again taking care not to damage them. Pruning the roots a little before potting the plant again will stimulate their growth and help the plant to settle in the new container. 

The new pot is then part-filled with new potting mix, after which the plant is centred in its new home, followed by adding mix and tapping it down around the plant. The plant then needs to be watered thoroughly to settle the potting mix (this will determine whether more mix needs to be added) and moisten the roots.

Repotting After-Care

Plants can get seriously stressed and weakened by the repotting process, and they will need a little extra care to begin with. A newly repotted plant should, for example, not be placed into direct sunlight, as this may be too harsh for an already weakened plant. 

The soil should be kept moist, without getting it soggy. Too much water will turn the leaves yellow, while too little water will make them go limp. High humidity usually helps plants to recover, so it may be a good idea to raise humidity slightly for a while. 

As fertilisers can burn the pruned roots of freshly repotted plants, they should not be fertilised until at least a month after they have been repotted. By this time, the root system will have established itself and will be able to deal with the fertiliser without suffering damage.

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June 18 2012 1 18 /06 /June /2012 21:56

Hard as it may be to believe, the Aquadulcaris pheronyx, a species of freshwater crustacean belonging to the arthropod family of Paramelitidae, is listed as critically endangered before much - or anything - is known about it, and before it has even been assigned a vernacular name. Once again, a tiny creature is paying the price for man's expansion and lust for profit. 

While there are obviously some scientists somewhere around the world who know about this creature and at least some of its biology, habits and so on - how else would it be known that the species is critically endangered - it does not appear as though any kind of detailed information is available anywhere. 

The few known Facts

crustacean.jpgWhat is known that this species is endemic to caves, streams and rivers in the wetland areas of Constantiaberg, a South African mountain not far from Cape Town. Believed to look similar to other freshwater crustaceans, such as the EpimeraTuberculata (pictured as a drawing here), for instance, the Aquadulcaris pheronyx and many other species living within South African wetlands are threatened by increasing pollution. 

The major Threats to the Species

This pollution, caused by increased human populations, agriculture and industries, is not helped a great deal by the gradual changes in climate the whole world is experiencing. Whole areas, if not polluted by human, agricultural or industrial waste, are drying up as dry seasons are getting longer and much needed rain fails to materialise.

It has been suggested that measures to manage water systems in order to reduce the amount of water bourne pollutants, such as heavy metals, biocides, acidic compounds and sediments, as well as salts and nutrients, is of utmost importance if these Eco-systems and their inhabitants are not to face total destruction and extinction.

The possible Effects of Extinction 

It is a serious shame that it has not been possible to gather more information on this creature. It doubtlessly plays an important role within the Eco-system of its habitat, and losing it could have untold consequences. Without knowing more about this species, it is hard to predict what may happen if it should disappear forever.

Minute particles, plankton, algae or creatures (in short, whatever the Aquadulcaris pheronyx regards as its favourite diet) may begin to multiply at alarming rates, ultimately causing rivers and streams to be over--run with them. This in itself could become a serious threat to the habitat. At the same time, removing the Aquadulcaris pheronyx from the food chain may endanger another, predatory species for which the Aquadulcaris pheronyx was previously a main food source.

Like with any other species, the knock-on effect of losing the Aquadulcaris pheronyx as a species within the surrounding Eco-system can and will have a wide-spread impact that may go as far as affecting predatory mammals, birds and/ or reptiles living within the area. Ultimately, this will also affect the human population. 

This situation needs to be addressed sooner rather than later, if not for the sake of these creatures, then for the sake of human children who have to rely on these polluted rivers for water supplies.

 

Sources:

http://www.earthsendangered.com/profile.asp?gr=CR&view=all&ID=1&sp=1873

http://wetlands.sanbi.org/articles2/File/wetlandssa16.pdf

http://www.ngo.grida.no/soesa/nsoer/resource/wetland/abstract_biota.htm

https://ujdigispace.uj.ac.za/bitstream/handle/10210/1999/AGuidetoWetlandIdentification...pdf?sequence=1

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June 17 2012 7 17 /06 /June /2012 07:39

The variety of potting mixes available for house plants at garden centres can be confusing, to say the least. In spite of the fact that potting media is generally referred to as potting soil, most mixes do, in fact, not contain any kind of soil at all. The reason for this is that soil can compact easily, and when packed into a plant pot will end up robbing the plant of the oxygen it's roots need.

The Triple Threat of Garden Soil

Garden soil should never be used as a cheap alternative to potting mixes, because first of all, it will compact and starve plant roots of oxygen. Secondly, the soil may contain the seeds of weeds, which will very quickly thrive and make the pot look like a patch of wasteland. Finally, garden soil may contain insects that may ultimately harm a house plant. This is not how a house plant should be started off in its new home by anyone's standards.

The Benefits of Potting Mixes

ingredients.jpgPotting mixes not only provide a house plant with the support it requires to stop it from falling over, they also store and provide the nutrients and water required by the roots. At the same time, potting mixes ensure plants do not get water-logged by providing good drainage, as well as allowing sufficient air to circulate within the potting medium to allow vital oxygen to get to the roots.

What's in the Bag?

Most good potting mixes do not contain any soil, but consist of a base of peat moss or other partly decomposed plant material (hence the term 'potting compost'), such as, for instance, fir bark. As a rule, other components, like sand, perlite and/ or vermiculite are added to this base in order to improve drainage and air circulation.

The Ingredients of Potting Mixes

  • Peat moss, the base ingredient of the majority of potting mixes available today, is a coarse brown powder consisting of ground up, partly decomposed bog plants. It keeps the mix light and improves overall water retention, making it perfect for plants that prefer a moist potting medium. Begonias, African violets and ferns, for example, particularly like peat moss mixes.
  • Composted bark, which is easily recognisable within a potting mix as large chunks, assists drainage and also helps to stop the potting medium from compacting, thereby improving air circulation. Potting mixes for orchids and bromeliads typically contain composted bark.
  • Sand assists in speeding drainage and dries out very quickly, making potting mixes containing sand perfect for cacti, other succulents requiring comparatively little water and palms native to sandy habitats. It is, of course, essential to use washed or horticultural sand, in order to ensure that there are no impurities or salt lkely to damage thee plants contained within the sand.
  • Vermiculite, which looks a little like small flakes of gold, consists of natural mineral deposits. In addition to assiting air circulation, Vermiculite can also absorb minerals and water at a rate of several times its own weight. The water and minerals are then gradually released back into the mix.
  • Perlite consists of expanded volcanic rock and looks like little white puffs. Thousands of minute air pockets allow perlite to soak up and release water rapidly, making it perfect for water regulation and drainage. While most potting mixes contain a certain amount of perlite, those for succulents typically have an extra helping of this ingredient.
  • Horticultural charcoal is used to absorb odours and keep soil from becoming sour in bottle gardens and terrariums. It is only required below the potting mix in enclosed plantings, as they do keep in moisture that may in time cause the soil to become sour if no charcoal is added.

Basically, it is important to consider what a particular house plant needs in terms of drainage and nutrients, and carefully studying the details listed on bags of potting mixes before making a purchase to ensure the right type of mix for the plant is provided. 

 

 

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