Earthdragon's Endangered Species

Plant Summary

Botanical Name: Gardenia jasminoides

Type: Flowering

Origin: Though growing wild in India, Japan, Southern China, Taiwan and Vietnam, cultivated Gardenias typically originate from China.

Height: Gardenia jasminoides can grow to heights ranging between 30 and 90 cm (1 to 3 ft). 

Soil: This type of house plant prefers a potting mix that is lime free.

Light: Gardenias like bright, but indirect light. During the winter months, a little direct sunlight will not harm them.

Humidity: A wet pebble tray or a regular room humidifier will provide the humidity Gardenias love. During summer, misting is recommended, although care should be taken to mist only the foliage - Gardenia flowers should not be misted. 

Temperatures: Gardenia jasminoides thrives in normal room temperatures ranging around 16 to 24 degrees C (60 to 75 degrees F). Providing night temperatures at the lower end of the range and day temperatures reaching the top end will promote budding.

Water: Throughout the growing season, the potting mix should be kept evenly moistened. Allowing the mix to dry a little between watering sessions and using a pot with drainage holes will prevent over-watering, which may lead to yellowing leaves. In winter, watering should be reduced slightly.

Fertiliser: Fed a diluted (50:50) liquid balanced fertiliser once a fortnight from spring through into late autumn. To prevent fertiliser burn, feeding should only take place while watering the plant.

Propagation: Gardenia jasminoides can be propagated by taking 8 cm (3") long cuttings of stem tips. Best cut in spring - or at the latest in early summer - the cut end should be dipped into hormone rooting powder, after which they need to be placed into moistened potting mix and covered to retain humidity. A plastic bag or cloche will be perfect for this purpose.

Description and Care Tips 

Also known as Cape Jasmine, Cape Jessamine or Common Gardenia, the evergreen Gardenia jasminoides is a flowering shrub belonging to the Rubiaceae family. Cultivated in China for around a thousand years, Gardenias are often planted in gardens within subtropical/ warm temperate climates, while being kept as house plants in cooler temperate regions.

Since the plant was introduced to the gardens of England in the middle of the 18th Century, many different forms have been bred. Some forms are low growing, while others have particularly large, long lasting flowers. 

What all of these forms have in common are the beautiful creamy white and heavily scented flowers that appear among the prominently veined, shiny dark green leaves and greyish bark during late spring and summer. The flowers are later followed by comparatively small oval fruit. 

In its native habitats, this fruit is used to create a yellow dye for both food and clothing, and apparently, traditional Chinese medicine uses them in potions to treat fevers. 

Often given as welcoming/ house warming gifts, Gardenias should be repotted - selecting a fairly small container will control the plant's overall size - and pruned in late winter to keep them in shape and promote blooming. Pruning should be done using a clean, sharp pruner to cut stems just above nodes (where branches/ leaves are attached to them) at a slight angle.

Warm days followed by cooler nights (see above for ideal temperatures) and plenty of indirect, but bright light will trigger buds. Once the buds start appearing, the plant needs to be kept in a draft-free, well-lit area away from fire places or gas stoves (the fumes of natural gas can seriously harm this house plant).

Regularly checking the soil will prevent it from drying out - flowering Gardenias are extremely thirsty, and dry soil will result in the buds dropping off. It is, however, vital not to get the soil too soggy, as this may not only cause the leaves to turn yellow, but may also result in dropping buds.

It is important to avoid using very hard water to water Gardenias, as this will make it difficult for the plant to absorb the nutrients it requires. If using hard water is unavoidable, adding a little lemon juice or vinegar to it will lower the water's pH and make life a little easier for the plant. 

If placed outside during the summer, Gardenias should be kept in a shaded position and must be returned indoors if temperatures threaten to drop below 16 degrees C (60 degrees F). Well looked after, happy Gardenias may even flower a second time during the autumn months.

While keeping these gorgeous little shrubs happy seems to require a lot of effort, the magnificent flowers and intoxicating fragrance are well worth it.

Plant Summary

Botanical Name: Fuchsia x hybrida, or Fuchsia hybrids

Type: Flowering

Origin: Fuchsia Plants originate from Argentina, Chile and Mexico.

Height: Regular Fuchsia hybrids grow up to heights of around 90 cm (3 ft). Dwarf varieties are naturally significantly smaller.

Soil: This house plant will do well in any general purpose, quality potting mix.

Light: Fuchsias like lots of bright light, but do not take kindly to direct, full sunlight.

Humidity: Fuchsia hybrids prefer moderate levels of humidity, so it may become necessary to raise levels slightly to keep the plant happy.

Temperatures: For most of the year, Fuchsias like to be kept fairly warm - at temperatures ranging between 16 and 21 degrees C (60 to 70 degrees F) - during the day, but a little cooler during the night, when temperatures should not exceed 10 to 13 degrees C (50 to 55 degrees F). In winter, the plant requires a cool rest, with minimum temperatures of around 7 degrees C (45 degrees F).

Water: The soil for Fuchsia hybrids should be kept evenly moist throughout spring, summer and autumn. As plants in hanging baskets tend to dry out quite rapidly, it is therefore necessary to check frequently, especially if the basket is kept outside. In winter, when the plant goes into dormancy, watering should be reduced.

Fertiliser: A liquid, balanced fertiliser needs to be diluted to half its strength and should be given to the plant once every two weeks during the months of spring and summer.

Propagation: Spring is ideal for propagating Fuchsias from 7 cm (3 in) long stem tip cuttings placed into moistened potting mix.

Description and Care Tips

With adequate care, Fuchsia hybrids will provide a dazzling display of magnificent blooms from spring through into late autumn for many years. Fuchsia blooms are spectacular, with pistils and stamens extending from bell-shaped single, double or semi-double petals toped by four flared sepals, which are often in colours contrasting with those of the petals. 

There are thousands of stunning hybrids, offering a choice of many rich colours - including red, pink, white, lavender and purple - in varying combinations. While most of the varieties sold in nurseries and garden centres are trailing, some varieties do have upright habits, although there is nothing quite like a mass of Fuchsia flowers cascading out of a hanging basket, or a container on a pedestal.

To provide adequate light, it is best to keep Fuchsias near a window, although they should never be exposed to direct sunlight. Moved into a shady spot outside, they will really thrive, but it is vital to return them indoors before temperatures are likely to drop below 7 degrees C (45 degrees F), as this plant does not tolerate frost.

Pinching out the growing tips during spring (or, at the latest, in early summer) will encourage the Fuchsia to branch out, giving it a much fuller appearance. The pinched out tips can, by the way, be used for propagation, as they will root easily. Spring is also a good time to prune this plant, using sharp pruners to cut stems cleanly just above leaf axils and at an angle of 45 degrees. This will help to give the plant an attractive shape and encourage new, vigorous growth. Naturally, it is important not to remove any flower buds during pruning.

After giving the plant a cool rest with reduced watering during the winter months, it can be repotted in spring. As Fuchsias have shallow roots and will bloom best when they are slightly pot-bound, the new pot should not be more than one size larger. Once the Fuchsia has reached the desired size, it can be kept in the same pot, although the soil should be refreshed regularly (once a year, in spring).

Plant Summary

Botanical Name: Freesia hybrids

Type: Flowering

Origin: Freesia Flowers originate from South Africa.

Height: The stems of Freesia hybrids can grow to heights of around 45 cm (18 in), and often need staking to keep them upright.

Soil: A good general purpose potting mix will be sufficient for this house plant.

Light: Freesia hybrids need plenty of bright light, and can handle a little direct, cool morning sunlight.

Humidity: This plant prefers average to moderate levels of humidity.

Temperatures: Until the corms of the Freesia Flower start sprouting, they should be kept fairly warm at temperatures around 27 degrees C (80 degrees F). The plant should then be kept cool - at temperatures ranging between 16 and 18 degrees C (60 to 65 degrees F) - during the growing and flowering periods. 

Water: The soil should be kept slightly moistened. Over-watering can cause corms to rot, and should be avoided.

Fertiliser: From the appearance of the first flower buds until flowering ends, the Freesia Flower should be fed once a fortnight, using a diluted (1:1) liquid fertiliser high in potassium.

Propagation: Although the corms will not bloom again when kept indoors, they will produce offsets, which can then be planted. Once flowering has finished, the foliage should be allowed to naturally die back. After cutting off the stems, the offsets can be removed and stored in a dry place until planting.

Description and Care Tips

Funnel-shaped and highly fragrant, the blooms of Freesia hybrids may be single or double, and come in a selection of gorgeous colours - from white, pink or red through yellow and orange to lavender or bi-coloured varieties. The slender, long flower stems are surrounded by strap-like, long leaves. Often purchased as cut flowers, the sweet scented, beautiful blooms of Freesia Flowers can be enjoyed far longer if the Freesia is grown as a house plant.

The corms of Freesia Flowers are easily forced into blooming, and should be planted from late summer into early autumn for an abundance of blooms in winter or early spring. To force Freesia Flowers, a fairly shallow container - which should have a minimum depth of 7 cm (3 in) - should be filled loosely with a suitable potting mix. 

The corms are then set - pointed end up - lightly into the potting mix. They should be approximately 5 cm (2 in) apart, and should not be pressed into the potting mix, as it needs to remain loose enough to allow the tender roots to easily grow through it. They are then topped with an additional 2.5 cm (1 in) of potting mix (again keeping it loose) and watered minimally.

The pot then needs to be moved to a warm - 27 degrees C (80 degrees F) - and bright spot for around 8 weeks, keeping the mix barely moistened throughout. Once the emerging shoots reach a height of around 5 cm (2 in), the pot should be moved to a cooler - 16 to 18 degrees C (60 to 65 degrees F) - bright location until buds begin to form. To ensure even growth, the pot needs to be turned every two days or so. Keeping Freesia Flowers in a bright spot - but out of direct sunlight - when in full bloom will help to prolong the blooming period.

Plant Summary

Botanical Name: Abutilon hybrids; Abutilon hybridum

Type: Flowering

Origin: The Flowering Maple originates from the tropical regions of Brazil.

Height: Indoor Abutilon hybrids are usually pruned back to keep them at a maximum height of around 90 cm (3 ft), but if left to its own devices, a plant will keep growing up to 3 m (10 ft) tall. Staking may become necessary for fairly tall plants.

Soil: This house plant is served best with a potting mix primarily consisting of peat moss.

Light: Abutilon hybrids require lots of bright light, even full sun, although they should be kept out of direct sun during midday.

Humidity: This plant requires moderate levels of humidity, and should be misted every two or three days (as required) with water at room temperature. This is particularly important during the winter months, when air tends to be drier.

Temperatures: Flowering Maples do not like to be cold, and should be kept in temperatures between 16 and 27 degrees C (60 to 80 degrees F). Anything less than 16 degrees C (60 degrees F) is likely to cause Abutilon hybrids to drop their leaves and enter a dormant state. If a plant is moved into the garden for the summer, it must therefore be returned indoors before night-temperatures drop to 13 degrees C (55 degrees F) or lower.

Water: Watering thoroughly should be followed by allowing the top 2.5 cm (1 in) of the potting mix to dry before watering again. While the soil needs to be kept evenly moistened, it should not be allowed to become soggy, as this will invite root rot.

Fertiliser: A Flowering Maple should be fed once a fortnight (spring to autumn) with a liquid fertiliser high in phosphorus.

Propagation: This plant can be propagated in spring by dipping the cut end of 10 cm (4 in) stem cuttings into rooting powder, then planting them in moistened potting mix.

Description and Care Tips 

Abutilon hybrids, which are often also known as Chinese Lantern Plants due to their papery drooping flowers, owe their common name of Flowering Maple to the shape of their foliage, which resembles the leaves of the Maple tree. 

Available in a plethora of varieties (the image above show just a small selection of possibilities), the Flowering Maple features large, bell-shaped flowers, which will more or less cover the plant from spring right through into autumn.

Thorough, even watering is essential, as uneven watering may cause dry pockets of soil, which will rapidly result in wilting. To prevent soggy soil and subsequent root rot, the container should have drainage holes, and drainage trays should be emptied immediately after watering.

To keep the plant at a manageable height, it is best to prune it back before its most vigorous growth-period in spring. As this house plant responds well to being pruned, it can be cut back quite harshly by up to a third. Pinching out growing tips will encourage branching and create a fuller, bushier appearance.

Spring is also the best time to propagate and repot Flowering Maples. As this house plant will bloom better when its roots are slightly pot-bound, repotting should only be done when necessary, and the new container should not be more than one size larger than the previous one.

Given conditions as close as possible to its natural habitat - plenty of sunlight (though shading from midday sun is essential), adequate humidity levels, warmth and moist soil - this plant will provide masses of blooms for the best part of the year.

The common pest usually referred to as whitefly is actually the Glasshouse whitefly, and is mostly found on greenhouse and indoor plants. Clouds of the approximately 1.5 mm (1/16 in) long white, winged adults rising as plants are disturbed are typically the first indication of infestations.

Female whitefly lay off-white cylindrical eggs (which have a slight yellowish-green tinge) either singly or in neat little circles. Shortly after, the also off-white nymphs will hatch. The nymphs spend most of their time in the same place - typically on the underside of leaves - feeding on the plant's sap and weakening it in the process.

Because they are quite difficult to detect and many strains of this pest have already developed or are able to quickly develop a resistance to most pesticides, prevention is one of the most effective measures of controlling them.

Signs of Infestation

Clouds of adults rising during watering, or when moving the plant, as well as circles of eggs and/ or scale-like nymphs, which are easily spotted underneath leaves and on stems, are sure signs of whitefly infestations. Black areas caused by sooty mould attracted by the honeydew secreted by both adults and nymphs; slow/ stunted growth and wilting/ dropping foliage also indicate infestations.

Dealing with Infestations

Immediate quarantine and pruning off all affected plant parts is essential to prevent the infestation from spreading. If a plant is suffering from a really heavy, serious infestation, it may well not recover at all. If only a small area is infested, it is often possible to remove these pests and their offspring by wiping them off with a soft, damp cloth, or by giving the plant a wash with insecticidal soap.

In greenhouses, introduction of Encarsia formosa, a tiny parasitic wasp that will attack whitefly nymphs, is highly effective if introduced before the infestation becomes too heavy. Monitoring the success of this method is made easy by the fact that parasitized nymphs will turn black. The wasp is, however, susceptible to pesticides, meaning they can not be used in conjunction with this method.

On house plants, yellow sticky traps often help to reduce adult populations. Home-made sprays may also help to deter these pests and their nymphs.

Contact sprays - Deltamethrin, urea/ mineral lattice, lambda cyhalothrin, fatty acids or plant oils/ extracts - must be used frequently, as their effect is relatively short-lived. A resistance to lambda cyhalothrin and/ or Deltamethrin may also already haven been developed, or may be developed fairly quickly by offspring.